Retinols, a simple guide

Retinols! Maybe you've heard of them? Maybe you're a convert? Maybe you've got no idea what they are!

If you know someone whose skin always seems to be bright, dewy and smooth then the chances are they are using Retinols, and if you've been to see me at Face to Face I have probably (hopefully!) bestowed their virtues to you, as I believe they are your 'not so secret' weapon to getting glowing smooth skin.

This guide will help you understand what they are, how to use them and what they could potentially do for you.

Retinols are a type of vitamin A derivative used in skincare to improve skin texture, reduce wrinkles, and treat acne. They work by changing how skin cells grow and behave. Available as a topical cream, gel or serum that is applied at night, they are one of the most popular and well-researched anti-aging ingredients on the market. In the UK, you can buy Retinols over the counter as a beauty product with a potency of up to 1%.✨

1. They speed up skin cell turnover

Normally, your skin renews itself roughly every 28–40 days. Retinols accelerate this process.

What happens:

• Old skin cells shed faster

• New cells come to the surface sooner

• Pores are less likely to clog

  
  

Results:

• Smoother skin

• Brighter complexion

• Fewer acne breakouts

  
  

2. They stimulate collagen production

Retinols signal skin cells (fibroblasts) to produce more collagen, the protein that keeps skin firm and elastic.

Effects:

• Reduces fine lines and wrinkles

• Improves skin firmness

• Makes skin look plumper

Collagen normally decreases with age, so retinol helps slow visible aging.

3. They unclog pores

Retinols prevent dead skin cells from sticking together inside pores.

Benefits:

• Helps treat acne

• Reduces blackheads and whiteheads

• Prevents new breakouts

That’s why dermatologists often recommend retinoids for acne treatment.

4. They help fade pigmentation

Retinols help disperse melanin (pigment) more evenly.

This can improve:

• Sun spots

• Post-acne marks

• Uneven skin tone

  
  

5. What happens inside the skin

Retinol itself isn’t the active form yet. Your skin converts it through steps:

Retinol → Retinal → Retinoic Acid

• Retinoic acid is the form skin cells actually use.

• Prescription retinoids (like tretinoin) skip some of these steps, which is why they’re stronger.

  
  

Common side effects (especially at first)

When starting retinol you may experience:

• Dryness

• Redness

• Peeling

• Mild irritation

This is often called the “retinization period.” It usually improves after 2–6 weeks.

In short:Retinol works by speeding up skin renewal, boosting collagen, and keeping pores clear, which improves acne, texture, and signs of aging.

Benefits of Retinols

• Reduced appearance of wrinkles and fine lines

• Improved skin texture and tone

• Reduced appearance of age spots

• Reduced appearance of pores

• Improved acne and acne scarring

  
  

How to Use Retinols

If you are new to using retinols, it is important to start slowly. You should begin by using a low-concentration retinol product (less than 1%) once or twice a week. As your skin gets used to the retinol, you can gradually increase the frequency of use.

It is also very important to have a skincare routine including daily sunscreen with an SPF of 50 or higher every day, as retinols can make your skin more sensitive to the sun.

Types of Retinols

There are many different types of retinols available on the market. Some of the most common types include:

• Retinol: This is the most common type of retinol. It is available in a variety of concentrations, up to 1% in the UK, with many beauty brands offering different products.

• Retinaldehyde: This is a more potent form of retinol. It is often used to treat acne.

• Tretinoin: This is the most potent form of retinol. It is only available by prescription in the UK.

  
  

Choosing the Right Retinol

The best retinol for you will depend on your individual skin type and concerns, but in general if you are new to Retinoids, I would recommend starting with a lower concentration Retinol, rather than Retinaldehyde or Tretinoin at first. You can then gradually increase the concentration as your skin gets used to it. There are many different brands to choose from and it can be overwhelming! I stock 05% and 15 Retinol from MediMD which I love thse retail at £34.99. If you are on a budget, The Ordinary do a selection of Retinol serums that are great value. If budget is no option, go for Medik8 Crystal Retinol.

Tips for Using Retinols

Here are a few tips for using retinols:

• If you are a skincare novice, prepare your skin barrier first before you start Retinoids by cleansing and moisturising morning and night for 2 weeks.

• Only apply Retinol at night

• Before bed, cleanse as normal, dry your skin and then apply a 20 pence piece amount of your chosen Retinoid. Apply as a light thin cover to your face and neck, avoiding the eye area.

• Start by using it once or twice a week, then build up to get the best results. Some people use it every night. I have to say I don't, but it's whatever works best for you.

• Be patient. It will take months to see tangible results from using retinols.

• You are more susceptible to sunburn after using Retinoids. Use a sunscreen with an SPF of 50 daily without fail. Apply to face AND neck. If you experience any irritation, stop using the product and have a break for a few days.

• Wait a few days and then try again but use less product.

• Skin can feel dry after Retinols, you can counteract this by adding a serum or moisturiser on top, 30 minutes after applying.

Who is not suitable for Retinoids?

• Anyone who is pregnant or breast feeding

• If you have sunburn, broken skin or easily irritated skin.

• If your doctor or dermatologist doesn't recommend it for you.

Want to know more?

Book a consultation with me to start your journey to brighter, smoother skin. I have numerous Retinols and other skincare products and can help you choose something to suit your skin needs and budget.

Disclaimer

This blog piece is for information purposes only and does not constitute medical advice from a GP or Dermatologist. Please consult with a doctor to determine the best treatment for your individual needs.